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etrailer | Trailer Hitch Installation – 2011 Volvo XC60 – Curt



Click for more info and reviews of this CURT Trailer Hitch:
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/CURT/13268.html
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https://www.etrailer.com/fitguide.htm

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Full transcript: https://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-trailer-hitch-2011-volvo-xc60-13268.aspx
Today on our 2011 Volvo XC60, we will be installing the Curt trailer hitch receiver in a class 3 with a 2-inch opening on the receiver, part number 13268. Heres what the hitch looks like installed on our vehicle. Now we will go ahead and give you a couple of measurements in helping you choose some accessories for your hitch, such as a ball mount, a bicycle rack, or a cargo carrier. From the center of the hitch-pin hole to the outer most edge of the bumper is approximately 7 inches. From the top of the opening in the receiver to the ground is approximately 13 and inches. Lets go ahead and install our hitch. We will begin here by removing the rubber isolator from each side of the muffler. To do this we use a little bit of spray lubricant and a large pry bar, to work the rubber isolator off of the metal hanger.

Once weve done this for both the driver and passenger side, next well need to remove the exhaust hanger itself. To do this well simply back the center bolt out and set it aside for now. Next, were going to need to mark out an area on the heat shield on each side that will need to take a pair of tin snips and trim out this area to allow the hitch to fit up into place. Now that weve got our heat shield timed out on both sides, next were going to need to remove the tape that covers up the uppermost hole here at the back. Its along the inside of the frame rail on each side. To remove the tape well simply use a flat-head screwdriver and slide it up underneath the tape, and peel it away. Now lets go ahead and point out the mounting locations that we will be using.

Theres a total of 3 on each side. We will be fish wiring the hardware into each of these 3 locations. The hardware that we will be using at this location is a 7/16 X 1.5 inch long carriage bolt, and a SP11 spacer. The SP11 spacer is the .25 X 1 inch X 2.5 inch square-hole spacer block. On the outside, well be putting a hex flange nut. Now well go ahead and take the coiled end of our fish wire, and go through the mounting location, coming out the access hole.

Well then feed the spacer block onto the end of the fish wire, followed by threading on the carriage bolt. Well then pull the carriage bolt and spacer block back into place. Well do this for both the driver and passenger side. Now that weve got these 2 carriage bolts fish wired into place, its a good idea to get an extra set of hands to help you raise the hitch up into position. You will have to move the exhaust around a little bit to get the hitch to slide up into position, as well as clear the rear fascia of the vehicle. Now that we have our hitch raised up into position, well go ahead and put it over the carriage bolt thats in the middle that we just installed.

Well then put the hex flange nut and loosely tighten it down on each side, to hold the hitch into place. Now we are ready to move to the forward most mounting location. Before we can fish wire anything though, well need to install our SP52 spacer, which is the large thick spacer that has the round hole in it. This will go in between the hitch and the vehicles frame. Well put this spacer block into place on both the driver and the passenger side. Now, for the forward most location, well again use the fish wire, but this time well use a 7/16 X 2 inch-long carriage bolt, and a SP7 spacer, which is the smaller of the 2 square-hole spacer blocks. Well again take the coiled end of the fish wire going through the mounting location, and coming out the access hole. We found when installing these 2 bolts, its best to put the spacer block onto the fish wire, then the carriage bolt threaded on, and as soon as you push the spacer block into the vehicles frame, go ahead and start the carriage bolt, otherwise youre unable to pull the carriage bolt and spacer block down into place, due to the length of the bolt. Now that you have the carriage bolt pulled into place, well go ahead and unthread the fish wire, and put the hex flange nut on. Well do this for both the driver and the passenger side. Finally, we just need to install the hardware for the 2 rear most mounting locations that are up on the side of the frame rail. For the 2 rear mounting locations, well again be using a 7/16X 1.5 inch-long carriage bolt. Well use one of the 2 remaining spacer blocks, and well fish wire this into place, again taking the fish wire through the mounting hole, and coming out the access hole, where well then thread the spacer bock on, followed by the carria

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